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The
Jetavanarama Dagoba is the largest remaining structure and may once have been
over 100m in height and housed an estimated 3000 monks. There are also museums
that invite exploration, marvellously restored twin ponds which were used by
monks as ritual baths, and immense tanks built to provide irrigation water for
the growing of rice. The best way to explore the area is by bicycle. The remains
of the ancient lakeside city of Polonnaruwa, 75km south-east of Anuradhapura,
date mostly from the reign of the Indian Chola dynasty in the 11th and 12th
century, but they cover a more compact site and are in an excellent state of
repair.
Hikkaduwa
Hikkaduwa is one of the island's
earliest developed beach resorts. It has a range of accommodation, good restaurants
and pleasant cafe-lined beaches. There's good snorkelling at an attractive and
easily accessible coral sanctuary, scuba diving at a number of wrecks in the
bay, tours by glass-bottomed boats and good surfing. It's a relaxed place, similar
to many Asian beach resorts popular with Western travellers. There are also
plenty of handicraft shops, temples, and a nearby lake with abundant birdlife.
Galle
The port of Galle, thought by some
to be the Biblical city of Tarshish, splendidly illustrates the solidity of
the Dutch presence in Sri Lanka. The 36-hectare Dutch Fort, built in 1663, has
withstood the ravages of time. Its massive ramparts surround the promontory
that forms the older part of Galle, and shelters within its walls sturdy Dutch
houses, museums and churches. This area has a quiet, relaxed atmosphere that
seems almost detached from the flow of history. The New Oriental Hotel, built
for Dutch governors in 1684, is a colonial gem with a wonderfully atmospheric
bar. Nearby is a tiny sliver of a beach suitable for a dip, though most travellers
prefer to head along the coast to the fine beaches at Unuwatuna, Weligama and
Tangalla.